Glass globe with the Himalayas and petroglyphs

In the Heights of the Himalayas

Melting glaciers, heavy rain, landslides on one side, drought on the other. In the heights of the Himalayas, climate change is particularly noticeable. And it is increasingly threatening newly discovered cultural monuments. What can be done?

Glaciers in the Hindu Kush-Himalayan region are an important source of water for around 240 million people in the mountainous regions and for another 1.65 billion people in the adjacent river valleys. However, the adverse effects of climate change do not stop at the people in the Lo Mustang region, a former kingdom in the Trans-Himalayan region in northwestern Nepal. Lo Mustang has experienced drastic environmental changes in the recent past. Trade routes and agriculture came to a standstill, entire societies in and around the country collapsed and had to migrate. The recent effects of climate change have made the situation even worse.

Most of the past and present problems in Lo Mustang are linked to depleting water sources. Water shortages also have an adverse impact on food production and food security in the region.

Most of the problems in Lo Mustang are linked to depleting water sources. Water shortages also have an adverse impact on food production and food security in the region.

Without sufficient rainfall, most summer and winter pastures deteriorate. The villagers are forced to reduce their herds and sometimes sell them altogether. Although most of the Lopa who live in the Lo Mustang region depend on agriculture, trade is also a small but significant part of the local livelihood. For centuries, the Lopa people were the main players in the trans-Himalayan trade, but political developments in Tibet after the 1950s put an end to the old trade.

Loss of Livelihood

The trade allowed them to purchase or exchange necessary amenities not found in the region such as spices, oil, and rice, but in recent times it is impossible to generate a surplus of local produce to trade. There is an exodus leaving Lo Mustang due to a loss of livelihood and increasing economic disparity, discrimination, and marginalization. Climate vulnerability is set to rise in the future further escalating the already dire situation, not just limited to local societies but also to its culture and heritage.

For centuries Lopa people acted as the main intermediaries in Trans-Himalayan trade but political developments in Tibet after the 1950s ended the ancient trade.

The traces of historic and prehistoric civilization are scattered around the Lo Mustang region in the caves, valleys, crags, and alongside the riverbeds, etc. since time immemorial. Environment and climate change in the present may push some of these obscure heritage sites into complete oblivion, and a part of their identity with it. Among those is a newly discovered heritage and archaeological site inside of Dhe village territory in Shar-ri, the eastern part of Lo Mustang. These sites and countless others in the region run the risk of being lost without people even realizing their importance.

The village Dhe is locally referred to simply as Dewa which signifies the concept of Sukhavatī or the blissful land of Buddha. The history and origin of Dhe are unclear and record books about Dhe or its previous settlements are almost non-existent in the public domain. However, there are well preserved oral histories in the village that provides invaluable insight into the origin and movement of the village ancestors highlighting some of the heritage sites inside the village territory and their relationship to the people and places of the region in social, cultural, and historical context.

Hundred Pictographs

One of the most historically important places in the Lo Mustang region is located in a rock at the lower end of the Kya Valley at an altitude of around 4200 meters. The rock is known locally as Sulledak and overlooks Mount Bhrikuti Himal (6361 meters) to the south, named after the Buddhist goddess Bhrikuti. There are huge rocks scattered around the base of the cliff. It is easily accessible, but not many villagers are aware of its existence.

There are well preserved oral histories in the village that provide insight into the origin and movement of the village ancestors highlighting some of the heritage sites inside the village territory.

The Sulledak site contains around a hundred pictographs and inscriptions using different materials and styles, possibly from different periods. Most of Sulledak pictographs are figurative representations of physical objects and life forms. The figurative work contains wild yaks, horses, birds, and tigers. There are also some anthropomorphic figures of different sizes scattered around the crag. Sun, moon, shrines, conch, and numerous mantras also can be seen on the site. Some of the compositions are intriguing and complicated. According to John Vincent Bellezza, archaeologist and cultural historian specializing in the pre-Buddhist heritage of Tibet and the Western Himalaya, the rock art and inscriptions of Sulledak are attributable to the Protohistorical period (ca. 100 B.C. to 650 A.D.), the Early Historic period (ca. 650-1000 A.D.), and the Vestigial period (ca. 1000 to 1300 A.D.).

The site also contains a few man-made dwellings with fireplaces and smoke deposits on the wall and ceilings. The structures may have been used by the nomads in former times, but the later dwellers most probably were hermits, whose patrons must have been the ancestors of the villagers. It is also possible that some of the later pictographs and inscriptions on the sites were made by hermits based in Kya Valley or its vicinity.

Even though almost all the paintings and inscriptions are exposed directly to the harsh environment of Lo Mustang, some are still in good condition. However, some on the lower surface of the cliffs near the soil are destroyed due to moisture and winter snow. There are only some red pigments left at the scene, visible only at the close inspection of the site. A comparative study of the photos from 2013 and 2022 shows the speed of deterioration of some of the rock paintings and inscriptions from the crag.

The unprecedented amount of rain and flooding in recent years seems to have affected some artwork. Signs of artwork close to the lower surfaces can be seen partially; in in some cases, they are completely destroyed. The Sulledak is also prone to rock fall and erosion, which has laid bare some of the artwork to the harsh Himalayan conditions and contributed to the rapid destruction of the artworks.

The unprecedented amount of rain and flooding in recent years seems to have affected some artwork.

The second site located in Kya valley is called Foradak which lies below the lower end of the Sherthang plain on the east. The site contains what look like religious inscriptions on the clay surface of the crag. The site was discovered in 2017 after a tipoff from Karsang Chödon one of the village elder now living in exile with her family. Dhe villagers didn’t know about its existence prior to that; it was long forgotten. The site consists of an abandoned pen and a small dwelling directly underneath the inscriptions site which is about two to three meters high above the ground.

Vandalized Inscriptions

The inscriptions on the Foradak site have been systematically vandalized in most parts using a sharp tool. Some section seems to have eroded naturally over time. There are also small caves in the vicinity of the site containing inscriptions and pictographs, but they too have been vandalized. Some red ochre pigments on the surface of the inside walls of the caves prove their prior existence, not more. The inscriptions found on the Foradak are totally different to those found in nearby Sulledak. There is a real possibility that the inscriptions on the Foradak are from the Vestigial period (ca. 1000 to 1300 A.D.) or later.

This site raises numerous historical and cultural questions which need to be resolved to (re)write the history of the region. But first, they need to be documented and thoroughly studied in context with other similar artwork found in the region. The Foradak inscriptions site is also prone to soil erosion which has destroyed some sections of the site.

The Ludak site was discovered in 2014. It consists of red ochre pictographs, two of which are human-looking figures, a sun, and a circle with a dot in the middle. It was photographed from a distance then. Ludak is unreachable without proper rock-climbing gear and so far, it has not been properly photographed. It lies on the obscured façade of the crag and is visible yet inconspicuous.

In 2017, more similar looking pictographs were found on the exteriors of a nearby Ludakphug cave. Ludakphug is a small man-made cave on the crag, immediately east of Dhe village which also contains a cache of manuscripts scattered around the cave floor, in dire conditions. A story in the village links these volumes to the state belonging to a prominent family from Dhe village. The family is said to have gone insolvent after their trade failed in Tibet.

They couldn’t follow the necessary rituals associated with those texts and opted to store them inside the Ludakphug cave to avoid and accumulate possible ‘sin’.

Forced Migration

On the one hand, extreme and unpredictable weather events physically destroy the material heritage sites, while on the other hand, many intangible representations of the value system, beliefs, tradition, and lifestyle are affected. Some are abruptly lost as the locals are forced to migrate to the larger cities to survive.

Nepal has prepared the ‘Strategic Program for Climate Resilience’ (SPCR) to respond to priority climate risks. This program compliments the Local National Adaptation Programs (NAPA), Climate Change Policy, and Local Adaptation Plans of Action (LAPA) and a few other programs.

However, these programs have not reached most parts of the Himalayan region including Lo Mustang. Nepal doesn’t have the resources it needs to build climate resilient societies as it is one of the least developed countries in the world.

These programs have not reached most parts of the Himalayan region. Nepal doesn’t have the resources it needs to build climate resilient societies as it is one of the least developed countries in the world.

The available resources from the government and aid agencies have mostly focused on answering the other urgent needs of the population. Only very few agencies are primarily focused on the protection of the culture and heritage in Lo Mustang. Their efforts to support cultural and heritage sites in Lo Mustang are mostly focused on bigger and more accessible areas.

Therefore, the fate of the above-mentioned heritage sites in Lo Mustang and countless others in the region remains uncertain. Destruction of such sites will inevitably contribute to a great loss of cultural identity not just for the local community but for the whole of humankind. Therefore, protecting and safeguarding such heritage sites is equally the responsibility of not just local stake holders and institutions but also of national and international agencies and the government(s). The role of stakeholders and local institutions is also vital to the sustainable future of such sites.

I strongly believe that any modus operandi for the conservation and preservation of such sites should be based on scientific studies with a multidisciplinary approach. This is only possible when stake holders, local agencies, government(s), aid/funding organizations, and academic institutions collaborate and coordinate with each other to strengthen efforts to protect and safeguard such vulnerable cultural and natural heritage sites.

Questioning the European Commitment

Culture has always been at the heart of Europe’s identity and it contributing to prosperity, social cohesion, and the overall wellbeing of Europeans which consolidates Europe’s image and influence in the world. The European member states have focused on cultural objectives in their Social Development Goal’s (SDGs) implementation strategies and the EU leaders have also openly pledged to increase their support to global cultural cooperation.

The SGDs have given the EU an unprecedented opportunity for global cooperation in the field of culture, which also resonates with the core value of the 2005 UNESCO Convention on the Protection and Promotion of the Diversity of Cultural Expressions. This Convention highlights the duty to protect and promote cultural diversity at home and abroad. As the world’s leading international donors, the EU and its member state are in a strong position to contribute to the protection and safeguarding of the cultural and heritages sites such as those found in Lo Mustang but somehow such conservation agendas seem to be not among EU’s top priorities.

Reports from Lo Mustang clearly indicate that flooding, earthquakes, extreme weather patterns, and other negative consequences of climate change pose a huge challenge to cultural and natural heritage sites in climate vulnerable areas such as the Himalayas. SDG (13) urges urgent actions to combat climate change and its impact. The International community and the EU must act to ‘preserve cultural heritage and promote cultural diversity’ which was also pledged by the member states during the 60th anniversary of the Treaties of Rome, in 2017.

The EU has the resources to strengthen efforts to protect and safeguard cultural and natural heritage sites. It can bring all the local agencies, stake holders, government(s), and academic institutions together.

The EU has the resources to strengthen efforts to protect and safeguard cultural and natural heritage sites. It can bring all the local agencies, stake holders, government(s), and academic institutions together.

It also has a legal obligation to do so but the necessary support programs for the protection and safekeeping of the cultural and natural heritage sites including from the 27 members state and the EU institutions are still difficult to find, to access, and to operate. Europe has much to contribute, and much to learn, in the time of climate change.

About the Author
Fidel Devkota
Visual Anthropologist

Fidel Devkota is visual anthropologist and based in Berlin and Kathmandu. His area of work and interest is mainly focused on the impact of climatic and environmental changes and their implications for local populations in the Himalayas. He is currently working on the documentation of recently discovered petroglyphs and rock art in the Dhetang region of Shar-ri, Lo Mustang, a project funded by Gerda Henkel Stiftung (Germany).

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